Getting Started:
If you've been here before you'll notice this is a second discussion about a sheetrock patch. I'm changing the format some to make it easier to follow and understand. I've taken many of the suggestions you've had along with what I've noticed to make this happen. Along these lines, I hope you'll continue to post comments about the postings. Even a hello is appreciated. Later, I'll be adding thumbnails you can click on for a picture of the tool.
Okay, we’re getting started. In the previous article I gave an overall scope of the job we’re going to do. Here’s a couple of before pictures. Since there are many different projects within the overall picture, I
’m going to address them, where I can, in such a way as to make it easy to 
apply the procedures to other situations. For example, a common kid patch is one where the doorknob has gone through the wall, no? Cool! Anyway, you could apply the same procedures in the patch I’m doing here, to that hole.
The Patch Place
You’ll see in the picture to the right there is a phone junction box. Why in the world someone used that big of a box is beyond me. See that little rectangle object in the bottom right corner. That little connector was the only thing in the box, and then there was a piece of masonite screwed onto the front. Our job is to get rid of the box and leave a smooth wall. We had to move the wires. Though very simple, it's always best to have a professional do this, but.....there are those times when you just can't go that route. For those cases, we’ll talk about how to accomplish that one later.
Squaring the Hole:
First we need to square up the hole. My patch is already square from the metal box that was in it, but generaly you'll have to square yours up. So I'll take a scrap piece of sheetrock and walk you through it as though it were your wall. But before you start marking on the wall, let's see how close the patch a
rea is to a stud. It's just easier if you can make your patch without intruding on a stud. To find out, you can slide your tape measure or framing square in the hole to measure where it is both left and right. Or, you can check the wall by using the end of the handle of the keyhole saw and gently taping on the wall from left to right. Directly in the middle between two studs there will be the most hollow of the sounds and directly in the middle of the stud will be the most solid sound. This is helpful to know before you start to draw a line on the wall so we don't have unwanted indentations from excess marks. Usually a patch can be done on one side or the other of a stud, and that is the simplest way. If not, then just apply these same principles to each side of the stud.
So, to attach our patch we’ll cut some scrap pieces of wood (as seen above left), to sort of picture frame the hole on the back side of the sheetrock (above right). You could get some 1x 4 pine to use, probably from the same Home Improvement store you get the sheet rock from. I'm using some left over Maple plywood from another job The lengths of the pieces don’t have to be perfect, but with even a little attention, you shouldn't have any problem making a tight fit, but it really will work if they’re not exact. You can see how I drew a line roughly in the middle of each piece. This is so that we get enough behind the existing rock, but not too much of the piece. I'm sure that sounds like a no brainer, but you'ld be supprised how easy it is to mess up.
Position the wood inside the hole and use a squeeze clamp to hold it in place while you use two or three 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach it. You could use 1 1/4" drywall screws but I find it easier to hold the 1 5/8" ones. A C" clamp could be used but be sure to put a scrap piece of wood on your side of the sheet rock, between the clamp and the rock, so the clamp doesn’t damage the rock.
If you've been here before you'll notice this is a second discussion about a sheetrock patch. I'm changing the format some to make it easier to follow and understand. I've taken many of the suggestions you've had along with what I've noticed to make this happen. Along these lines, I hope you'll continue to post comments about the postings. Even a hello is appreciated. Later, I'll be adding thumbnails you can click on for a picture of the tool.
Overview of the Patch:
The patch I'm doing here is a part of this kitchen remodel. However, from time to time I'll stray from the particular job at hand with both pictures and discussions so I can make this process applicable to most any hole in sheetrock you might have. The most common one I've run across is a door knob hole from an excessive release of pressure when the door was opened, or slung opened, or ......., well, you get the point. Anyway, first you'll find the tools and materials required to complete patching a hole in your wall. I strongly suggest that if you're buying any of them, buy the best, you really do get what you pay for in tools.
Tools Needed:
- Hammer - I prefer a 16 oz. to 18 oz. straight claw, they're more versatile in use, but some like a curved claw.
- Tape measurer - 16 footers are great for smaller jobs but pick up a 25 foot 1 inch wide also
- Level - This is not a necessity for this job, but I wouldn't attack any job without a 2', and a 4' one handy.
- Sheetrock knife - with retractable blade - Kobalt & Stanley are two good ones
- Keyhole Saw - they're a small pointy saw, you'll see it in a picture below.
- Framing square (12" or 24") the smaller 12" should be fine for most small patches. I'm using a 24"
- Variable speed drill (preferably cordless) - but DEFINITELY variable speed
- Philips Tip bits for the drill and magnetic quick change sleeve. The sleeve may sound like a big deal but it's just a round magnet that you can pop different bits into the end of.
- Small and large joint compound knives (mud knife, spatula, etc.) 6" & 12"
-
Mud tray. For this one, plastic with a sharp edge is fine, unless you got a lot a holes, then get the stainless steel one.
Materials:
- Drywall, Sheetrock. Most of your larger Home Improvement stores will have some smaller pieces, generally 24" x 24". Sometimes they might be 4' x 4' (half sheets). Get enough to do the job, but you don't need a full sheet to patch a small hole, and if you ask, they might have a scrap or cut a full one for you. Most residential properties will have 1/2" rock where commercial will generally be 5/8", or if your apartment wall with the hole is next to another apartment. Either way, since you currently have a hole in your wall, hehe, you should easily be able to measure it.
- Drywall screws. You'll find them in the hardware department. Get 1 5/8" course thread, unless you know your building is a commercial structure with metal studs. But generally, wood, yep. I like the 1 5/8" because they're easier to hold while putting in, but the 1 1/4" will work fine.
- 2 x 4 spruce. You could basically use any old wood you have. In this case you'll see I used some Maple Plywood scraps.
- Mesh Joint tape. You can use paper, but the mesh is much easier to work with. It sticks to the wall where you want it.
- Sanding pad. You can find black ones that are two sided, course/medium and medium/fine. I like the medium/fine, but if you're really rough with the mudding, you may need to start out with the course.
- Tarp - Get a decent tarp. Most of "those stores", will have anything from thin plastic to heavy cloth. Get the paper one with the plastic backing, or the plastic one with the paper.
- 1 1/2" wide blue painters tape.
- I would say now it'd be great if you had a dust vac, but it's not a necessity. The white sanding dust just cleans up much easier if it is first vacuumed before being ground in with a rag .
Summary:
Okay, let me know what you think about this format so far. Over the next few days I'll be replacing all of the "Sheetrock Patch" post down below here in more of this style. Any comments are appreciated. Also, don't forget, if you have something that needs immediate attention and your stuck, ask.
Have a Great Day,
Joe
Okay, we’re getting started. In the previous article I gave an overall scope of the job we’re going to do. Here’s a couple of before pictures. Since there are many different projects within the overall picture, I
’m going to address them, where I can, in such a way as to make it easy to 
apply the procedures to other situations. For example, a common kid patch is one where the doorknob has gone through the wall, no? Cool! Anyway, you could apply the same procedures in the patch I’m doing here, to that hole.The Patch Place
You’ll see in the picture to the right there is a phone junction box. Why in the world someone used that big of a box is beyond me. See that little rectangle object in the bottom right corner. That little connector was the only thing in the box, and then there was a piece of masonite screwed onto the front. Our job is to get rid of the box and leave a smooth wall. We had to move the wires. Though very simple, it's always best to have a professional do this, but.....there are those times when you just can't go that route. For those cases, we’ll talk about how to accomplish that one later.
Squaring the Hole:
First we need to square up the hole. My patch is already square from the metal box that was in it, but generaly you'll have to square yours up. So I'll take a scrap piece of sheetrock and walk you through it as though it were your wall. But before you start marking on the wall, let's see how close the patch a
rea is to a stud. It's just easier if you can make your patch without intruding on a stud. To find out, you can slide your tape measure or framing square in the hole to measure where it is both left and right. Or, you can check the wall by using the end of the handle of the keyhole saw and gently taping on the wall from left to right. Directly in the middle between two studs there will be the most hollow of the sounds and directly in the middle of the stud will be the most solid sound. This is helpful to know before you start to draw a line on the wall so we don't have unwanted indentations from excess marks. Usually a patch can be done on one side or the other of a stud, and that is the simplest way. If not, then just apply these same principles to each side of the stud. Cutting the Patch Piece
Now that we know where we want to put our patch, we can lay a framing square flat on the wall and read the numbers on the outsides of the square. Make them big enough to encompass the hole. Now, using the framing square and those same numbers, lay it on a piece of sheetrock opposite a square corner and trace the outside edges of the framing square (see the picture)
. Be sure to check above and below the hole in the wall for a light switch or outlet. If there is one, then be cautious and turn the breaker off for that circut. Plug something in and be sure they're off. After you cut the hole you can inspect the wires and make sure they aren't cut or even nicked. If they're good then you can turn the breakers back on. The easiest way to cut out the square or rectangle is to use a keyhole saw. A sheetrock knife will make a much cleaner cut, but if you don't have the strength, the key hole saw is the ticket. You can see one in the picture below. You can also see they last along time. Tip: If you ever need to get a Keyhole saw started and there's no hole in the sheetrock to begin with, you can stick the point of the saw against the sheetrock and while holding it perpindicular to the rock, pop the back of the handle, repeat if necessary, and again, again...yea! Another little trick (Tip) is to drag your sheetrock knife towards you along the edge of the cut piece to smooth it out (bottom right), but don't get carried away and do this after you have traced it on the wall.
Now that we know where we want to put our patch, we can lay a framing square flat on the wall and read the numbers on the outsides of the square. Make them big enough to encompass the hole. Now, using the framing square and those same numbers, lay it on a piece of sheetrock opposite a square corner and trace the outside edges of the framing square (see the picture)
. Be sure to check above and below the hole in the wall for a light switch or outlet. If there is one, then be cautious and turn the breaker off for that circut. Plug something in and be sure they're off. After you cut the hole you can inspect the wires and make sure they aren't cut or even nicked. If they're good then you can turn the breakers back on. The easiest way to cut out the square or rectangle is to use a keyhole saw. A sheetrock knife will make a much cleaner cut, but if you don't have the strength, the key hole saw is the ticket. You can see one in the picture below. You can also see they last along time. Tip: If you ever need to get a Keyhole saw started and there's no hole in the sheetrock to begin with, you can stick the point of the saw against the sheetrock and while holding it perpindicular to the rock, pop the back of the handle, repeat if necessary, and again, again...yea! Another little trick (Tip) is to drag your sheetrock knife towards you along the edge of the cut piece to smooth it out (bottom right), but don't get carried away and do this after you have traced it on the wall.
After you draw your two square, or rectangle lines, and cut the piece out we're going to put it over the hole in the wall and trace the edges of the patch piece. The goodpart about this method is that you know the hole is going to be exactly the same as the patch piece. But, make sure you mark to top of the piece so that when you go to put in there's no question.
Preparing the Hole
To put our new piece of sheet rock in the hole we need something to attach it to or it will just fall into the wall. You'll notice in the picture up above, that I only have wood on one side of the hole. Typically it might be said you should cut from the middle of one stud to the middle of the next one over. Yes, this might technically be stronger, providing the piece isn't too small…….but the added strength is not always necessary, by a long shot. At the same time, if you patch from stud to stud, my patch will be in before yours is cut.
So, to attach our patch we’ll cut some scrap pieces of wood (as seen above left), to sort of picture frame the hole on the back side of the sheetrock (above right). You could get some 1x 4 pine to use, probably from the same Home Improvement store you get the sheet rock from. I'm using some left over Maple plywood from another job The lengths of the pieces don’t have to be perfect, but with even a little attention, you shouldn't have any problem making a tight fit, but it really will work if they’re not exact. You can see how I drew a line roughly in the middle of each piece. This is so that we get enough behind the existing rock, but not too much of the piece. I'm sure that sounds like a no brainer, but you'ld be supprised how easy it is to mess up.
Position the wood inside the hole and use a squeeze clamp to hold it in place while you use two or three 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach it. You could use 1 1/4" drywall screws but I find it easier to hold the 1 5/8" ones. A C" clamp could be used but be sure to put a scrap piece of wood on your side of the sheet rock, between the clamp and the rock, so the clamp doesn’t damage the rock.
I'm going to sign off for now. There's alot here to digest but I think it should really be easy to follow. I would most graciously accept any critiquing on how I have presented the issues and described to work to be done. The whole point is for me to make it easy to follow, and I think I've done that. Anyway, Please let me know how it's going. I'll be back in a bit to finish up this sheetrock patch and move on with some of the other projects in this job.
Have a great day,
Doit Your Way,
Joe
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